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Roman occupation in the later 1st cent, made Chester an important military
point, with a fortress on a sandstone hill at the head of the estuary. During
most of the Roman occupation it was the headquarters of one of the three Roman
legions of Britain. The first defences were turf ramparts with wooden gates.
After the 1st cent, there was a stone wall with four stone gates and 26 stone
towers, and on the north and east sides of the city, from St Martin's Gate to
Newgate, the present city wall follows the line of the Roman wall, incorporating
parts of it. The west and south sides of the old stone wall were later destroyed
and the walls extended over a wider area, including that of the castle. It is
not certain whether the extension was made by Romans or Anglo-Saxons, and it
could even have been as late as the 12th or early 13th cent. Roman remains were
found in the Eastgate when it was rebuilt in 1769. Near steps leading down to
Frodsham Street are the lower parts of the Roman wall and the foundation of a
Bth-cent. drum tower. Between King Charles' Tower and Northgate are two
stretches of Roman wall as much as 17 ft high. The foundations of the Roman gate
were found when Northgate was rebuilt in 1808. The open space of the Roodee is
where the Romans had a harbour and a large section of their quay wall stands on
the race-course below the city walls. The south-east angle of the Roman wall
meets the medieval wall near the Wolfe Gate with the lower Roman courses
visible. The most important Roman area is the amphitheatre, E. of Newgate. It is
the largest Roman amphitheatre so far discovered in Britain, built of stone,
covering an area of 314 ft by 286 ft, with an arena 190 ft by 162 ft. The street
plan of the city originated with the Romans, and inside the walls the four main
streets today follow their plan: Eastgate Street, Watergate Street, Bridge
Street and upper North-gate Street. There were Roman roads to London and york
below Lower Bridge Street and Fore-gate Street. A Roman hypocaustis in the
basement of Quaintways Cafe, Northgate Street, and on the opposite side, in the
cellars of No. 23, are bases, shafts and a capital from the Roman head quarters. The Roman legion probably abandoned Chester before the early 5th cent, and the
fortress was then deserted for hundreds of years. By late Anglo-Saxon times the
city was important enough to produce coins at its own mint, and it was four
years after the Conquest before the city gave way to Norman rule. The 13th and
early 14th cents. were a period of great importance, when the port had become
prominent and traded with Ireland, Scotland and parts of the Continent. Like
York, Chester had medieval mystery plays, presented at Abbey Square, then the
outer court of the Abbey of St Werburgh, and in the streets. In the 15th cent,
the city had a military quarrel with the Welsh, but a greater problem was the
silting-up of the River Dee, which choked the trade of the port, whereas in
Roman times the tower at the northwest corner had stood in the water. This
impoverished the city as did the siege in the Civil War which interrupted commerce on land that was never subsequently regained. The remarkably well-preserved walls, with their medieval reconstruction, provide
an interesting walk and cover a circuit of 2 m. There was further
re-fortification of the walls in the Tudor and Civil War periods, from which
some of the present towers date. The Eastgate with a large 1897 clock is the
main entrance. King Charles' Tower (NE.) is said to be where Charles I watched
the defeat of his forces by the Parliamentarians after the city had been more
or less besieged for two years. The tower has a Civil War exhibition. West of
Northgate tower is Morgan's Mount, which was violently bombarded during the
Civil War. St Martin's Gate, further W., was built in 1966 to allow the ring
road to breach the walls. The Goblin Tower dates from 1702 and 1894.
Bonewaldsthorne's Tower is at the northwest corner, connected to the Water
Tower which the recession of the Dee left high and dry. The Water Tower built in
1322 is substantially unaltered and contains an exhibition of medieval Chester
with dioramas. Watergate, on the west side, was once controlled by the Earls of
Derby who charged a toll on goods taken through. Their kinsmen, the Alderley
Stanleys, owned Stanley Palace (1591), a fine half-timbered building. By the
16th cent, the city was a well-known centre of drama with Whitsuntide and
midsummer festivals; some researchers have suggested that Shakespeare lived in
Chester, or even that the author of his plays was not Shakespeare but William
Stanley, 6th Earl of Derby. William was brother to the 5th Earl, Ferdinando, who
was a patron of actors, including Shakespeare. Bridge-gate (S.) is 18th-cent.
and replaces a medieval gate. Newgate is modern (1938), built to give more space
than the old Wolfe Gate nearby. The Rows, a unique feature of the city, can be found in Watergate Street,
Eastgate Street and Bridge Street. You can inspect modern shops in the
appropriate stretches of these streets, take the first flight of steps you find
between shops and find yourself walking on the roofs of the shops beside another
row of shops set further back; an interesting form of "pedestrian precinct" that
surpasses the modern type.The Cathedral was designed as an abbey church and the buildings round the
cloisters were the monks' living-quarters. On this site there was a church or
minster founded in the 10th cent, to hold the body of St Werburgh. In 1092, Hugh
Lupus, the Norman Earl of Chester, made it an abbey of
Benedictine monks, and for five centuries this monastery was
powerful and owned much land. After the Dissolution the abbey
became a cathedral and bishopric. The consistory court has
woodwork and a screen of the 17th cent. The nave was begun in
the 14th cent, but not completed until the 16th. In the north
aisle of the choir parts of the 12th-cent. abbey church were
incorporated in the foundations built some two centuries later.
There are remarkable late 14th-cent. carvings on the choir
stalls, including a Tree of Jesse with the genealogy of Christ. |
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The south transept is 14th-cent. and was once the Parish Church of St Oswald. There
is a fine stone pulpit in the refectory, and the chapter house has early MSS.
and printed books. The Grosvenor Museum has two important Roman galleries, the Newstead and another
with an unrivalled collection of inscribed material. A third gallery has coins
from Chester mint. An early 18th-cent. house attached to the museum holds
costumes, a Victorian room, period furniture, natural history, and watercolours
and drawings of the locality. Chester Zoo, to the north is famous. Its aim is to show animals, birds, reptiles
and fish in conditions as much like their natural environment as possible, and
bars and cages are minimized. Gardens are an integral part of it, and there is a
special tropical house.
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